Your lift should have a model and serial number label located on the cradle. The model should start with LSV + 5 digits (first two denote weight capacity: example 40=4000 lbs, next three are beam width: example 108=108")+ 1 to 3 letter code (this denotes series and type). If you can't find the tag please use the flow chart below. If your lift does not match the above, you may have an older model as shown below.

Most boat lifts (including ours) are designed to carry the weight of the boat evenly between the front and rear cradle. Putting most of the weight on either the front or rear is actually overloading the lift. Except for straight inboard, most boats are very stern heavy. So the boat needs to be positioned on the lift so that much more bow than stern is sticking off of the lift.

Yes. See diagram below. Minimum water depth using no legs is 19" on V cradle and 25.5" on straight cradle. Assuming a boat draft of 16". * Minimum water depth using legs is 26.5" on V cradle and 30" on straight cradle. Assuming a boat draft of 16". * Maximum water depth using the 36" "stock" legs is 89" on V cradle and 95" on straight cradle. Longer legs available. * * These are absolute minimum and maximum depths and not recommendations. Waves and wind and water level fluctuations might make these minimums and maximums impractical. Talk to your dealer about your situation.

WARNING : NEVER ADJUST BUNKS WHILE BOAT IS ON LIFT. Determine proper location for BUNKS making sure they are equal distance from the center of the cradle. The simplest way to determine this is by measuring the distance between the two inside bunks on your boat trailer. If you do not have a trailer start with each bunk 16" from the center of the cradle (32" apart), or measure to the flat fin on the bottom of the hull closest to the 16” mark. Slide the BUNK SOCKETS into position and tighten all bolts. If you are using the bunks for a Pontoon: Measure the distance between the rib on the bottom of each toon or log. Divide that measurement in half to get the distance from the middle of the cradle to the center of each bunk set. Each pair of bunks should be approximately 6” apart. Adjust BUNK U CHANNEL on underside of each BUNK to match BUNK DOWN LEGS and tighten 3/8 hex nut to hold firmly in place. Do not overtighten! While holding BUNK flat snug bolt so bunk will still pivot under the load of the boat. This will insure that the bunks will conform to your boat. Load boat onto lift making sure that the weight is balanced between the two CRADLES. Check and reposition bunks as necessary.

No. But if you want to move the lift from one side of your dock to the other, simply turn your lift 180° at the same time. It doesn't matter which end of the lift you drive onto.

Overloading your lift is unsafe and will void the warranty.

The rear cables are only used to keep the cradle level. These cables are only in tension when the load is not centered. Then, only the cable on the heavy side is working and will appear tight. The cable on the light side is doing no work so it remains loose. If you tighten these cables they will bind and make the lift hard to crank.

If the winch doesn’t click going up, the winch is wound backwards. The wheel rotates clockwise to raise the lift and counterclockwiseto lower the lift. If your winch has been wound backwards it could be damaged and/or the chain could be loose or broken. Please have it inspected before using the lift. The winch needs a load to activate the brake. An empty lift may not stay up.

When the cradle is cranked down too far it can cause slack which allows the cable to spool out and get caught between the chain and sprocket. The next time it is cranked up it kinks the cable and either stretches or snaps the chain. If your chain is slipping this has happened in the past and you will need to replace the chain. The cable should also be checked to make sure it is not damaged.

The weight capacity is identified by the model number of your lift. Your lift should have a model and serial number label located on the cradle. The model should start with LSV + 6 digits + 1 to 3 letter code. If you can't find the tag please visit our How Do I Know Which Lift I Have? page in the FAQ area of our website.

The front cable lifts the entire weight of the boat up and down. The two side cables lift the rear of the boat and the two rear cables balance the load from sided to side. (NOTE: the two rear rear cables need to remain loose).

Your lift should have a model and serial number label located on the mainframe near the winch. The model should start with LSC + 3 to 4 digits + 1 letter code (optional). If you can't find the tag please consult the flow chart below.

Yes. But be sure to mount the winch upside down if placed on the right side and thread the cable over the shaft and then around the winch drum. Failure to do so will cause damage to both the winch and cable. After installation check that the cable is not rubbing on the shaft.

There could be two issues: 1. The winch shaft and the wheel need to be greased. 2. The wheel needs to thread on and off the shaft smoothly to activate and release the brake, so check for damaged threads.

If the winch doesn’t click going up, the winch is wound backwards. Turn the wheel clockwise to raise up and counterclockwise to lower down. The winch also needs a load on it to activate the brake. An empty lift may not stay up.

Your lift should have a model and serial number label located on the cradle. The model should start with LSP + 2 digits + 1 letter code. If you can't find the tag please use the flow chart below. If your lift is 20' long it is an LSP20H which we now offer with 4' extensions LSP04H.

Usually its better to buy a lift that is longer than the deck of your boat. This allows you to use the bow stops to help you dock your boat. Also, the boat should be centered on the lift and the cradle should extend past the rear of the boat when properly loaded.

In determining the weight of your boat be sure to add the following to your boat's advertised dry weight: Fuel = 6 lbs. per gallon Oil = 8 lbs. per gallon Water = 9 lbs. per gallon And don't forget the equipment: tow ropes, water skis, paddle, flares, fire extinguisher, radio, towels, lift jackets, ladder, anchor, fishing gear, batteries, coolers, adult beverages and ballast. All this can add up to a 25% increase over the advertised "dry weight" of your boat. All of our Cantilever Pontoon Lifts are rated for 3600 lbs total weight.

If your winch model has smooth sides it can be mounted on either side with no modifications. Winch models made with fluted or ruffled sides must be modified (see below) before they can be moved. Without modification, the winch will be mounted upside down and the lift won't stay up because the brake cannot activate. Modification: Remove the mounting channel from the side of the winch and reattach it to the other side. This requires removal and re-installation of 4 carriage bolts. Make certain that the slot in the mounting channel stays opposite the drum.

This usually means your winch is wound backwards. Turning the wheel clockwise should raise the lift, counterclockwise should lower the lift. This is the only way the brake will work. If the winch is wound backwards try lowering it and then winding it correctly. If this does not work then the cable or the winch has been damaged and needs to be serviced.

The bottom of the lift should be supported every 8' so it may be necessary to add more than one pair of legs.

When the cradle is cranked down too far it can cause slack which allows the cable to spool out and get caught between the chain and sprocket. The next time it is cranked up it kinks the cable and either stretches or snaps the chain. If your chain is slipping this has happened in the past and you will need to replace the chain. The cable should also be checked to make sure it is not damaged.

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It is quite difficult to install a lift in soft mud or muck. Dealers have used 2x12s and plywood to keep the lift from sinking into the ooze, with limited success. Kim Klave of Klave's Marina has been using 55 gallon drums at the bottom of each foot with great success. He uses the blue plastic drums used by bottling companies. He cuts them in half around the middle then puts one half under each leg. The theory is that the half barrels form little boats that float in the muck (even though they are filled with water) and keep the lift from sinking.

Over time, Boardwalk wood turns gray. Pine Boardwalk: 2 – 3 years. Cedar Boardwalk: 2 – 3 months. This gray can be removed by a simple application of bleach, then rinse. (Please do this in an appropriate location, when your dock is out of the water.) The gray is magically eaten away leaving something closer to the original wood color. To make the original wood look last longer, we suggest you use one of the commonly available deck sealers.

TO UNFOLD AND EASE INSTALLATION: 1. Remove Canopy Cover from bag. 2. Throw the bundle up on the frame. 3. Unroll lengthwise. 4. Unroll widthwise. It's that easy!

The winches on Vertical “C” style lifts are quite heavy. It is hard to hold the winch up while inserting the hold down bolts. It has been suggested that the frame be tipped up so that post number #1 and #2 posts are resting on the ground. With post #1 on the ground it is now quite easy to set the winch on #1 (winch) post and install the bolts.

If a canopy frame overhangs the lift by more than 10 feet it starts to droop and is weakened. Our new Brace Kit will reduce this drooping and strengthen the canopy. We strongly recommend using this brace for 28’ and 30’ canopies, and they are included. We also suggest it also be used on 26’ canopies.

Several years ago we contacted a contractor to build a deck for us down near the water. We ended up making a 10’ x 20’ deck over the water using 5 sections of boardwalk and a truss for half the contractor's price.